Safe?

I’m often asked if I feel safe in South Sudan. Well… yes and no. 

South Sudan seems much more orderly and peaceful every time I return. This time there was a noticeable increase in the presence of police on the streets and this has made a remarkable improvement to the traffic and has reduced the crime rate significantly. Aweil has a curfew at 11 pm and has tightened its laws on alcohol consumption and these have had a noticeable effect on law and order. 

While living conditions are still very basic, it is obvious that this is a country that is focussing on its future development rather than being totally absorbed in conflict. So as I go about my work there is no indication of any immediate threat to my safety. Mostly people are friendly, honest and respectful and I feel quite relaxed moving around on my own. 

However, that is only one side of the story… 

The country was at the point of war at the time I was due to enter, so that wasn’t a great start. I delayed my entry for a few weeks until both sides renewed their commitment to peace. But I had only been in Juba about a week and was making plans to travel to Aweil when there was a very fierce battle involving three SAF battalions supported by artillery, helicopter gunships and Antonev bombers moving into Aweil East which was defended by one SPLA battalion. Various parts of Northern Bahr Al Ghalel were bombed including Nyumlel where I stayed recently and a gunship circled Aweil. An SAF Antonev bomber was also identified flying over Juba. One of my friends offered to show me video of the battle in Aweil East. I declined, but the battle was described to me in very disturbing detail. 

In addition to the conflict with Sudan, internal conflict continues to be a great concern. A staff member from Australia wanted to visit Bor in Jonglei state – a region where thousands have died in recent inter-tribal cattle raids. There had been reconciliation meetings and disarmament and I was advised the region was considered safe to visit – but weeks later fighting erupted again. 

More locally again, many people carry guns and other weapons. I was drinking coffee at the hotel when people at a nearby table started to argue. One stood up, pulled a gun from his belt and pointed it at another man’s chest. People laughed and continued their conversations. 

In addition there have been snakes, floods, malaria and other mysterious diseases that cause numerous sudden deaths. Of the four Australians I met in Aweil this year, one died, one almost died and another was evacuated. 

So do I feel safe? Most of the time. I do my best to stay informed of the dangers and take every precaution possible. The harsh reality is that this is a country where thousands of innocent people still die unnecessarily. And that’s why we are here. This country needs the help of the international community. Its not Disneyland, but we can make a difference.