Safe?

I’m often asked if I feel safe in South Sudan. Well… yes and no. 

South Sudan seems much more orderly and peaceful every time I return. This time there was a noticeable increase in the presence of police on the streets and this has made a remarkable improvement to the traffic and has reduced the crime rate significantly. Aweil has a curfew at 11 pm and has tightened its laws on alcohol consumption and these have had a noticeable effect on law and order. 

While living conditions are still very basic, it is obvious that this is a country that is focussing on its future development rather than being totally absorbed in conflict. So as I go about my work there is no indication of any immediate threat to my safety. Mostly people are friendly, honest and respectful and I feel quite relaxed moving around on my own. 

However, that is only one side of the story… 

The country was at the point of war at the time I was due to enter, so that wasn’t a great start. I delayed my entry for a few weeks until both sides renewed their commitment to peace. But I had only been in Juba about a week and was making plans to travel to Aweil when there was a very fierce battle involving three SAF battalions supported by artillery, helicopter gunships and Antonev bombers moving into Aweil East which was defended by one SPLA battalion. Various parts of Northern Bahr Al Ghalel were bombed including Nyumlel where I stayed recently and a gunship circled Aweil. An SAF Antonev bomber was also identified flying over Juba. One of my friends offered to show me video of the battle in Aweil East. I declined, but the battle was described to me in very disturbing detail. 

In addition to the conflict with Sudan, internal conflict continues to be a great concern. A staff member from Australia wanted to visit Bor in Jonglei state – a region where thousands have died in recent inter-tribal cattle raids. There had been reconciliation meetings and disarmament and I was advised the region was considered safe to visit – but weeks later fighting erupted again. 

More locally again, many people carry guns and other weapons. I was drinking coffee at the hotel when people at a nearby table started to argue. One stood up, pulled a gun from his belt and pointed it at another man’s chest. People laughed and continued their conversations. 

In addition there have been snakes, floods, malaria and other mysterious diseases that cause numerous sudden deaths. Of the four Australians I met in Aweil this year, one died, one almost died and another was evacuated. 

So do I feel safe? Most of the time. I do my best to stay informed of the dangers and take every precaution possible. The harsh reality is that this is a country where thousands of innocent people still die unnecessarily. And that’s why we are here. This country needs the help of the international community. Its not Disneyland, but we can make a difference.

Getting A Receipt...

Today I asked one of our contractors for a receipt for the fund transfer he received from our office. He provided me with the following photographs. They are very convincing, but Im not sure what our book-keeper will say.

1 - The Money

2 - My Contact With The Money

3 - My Contact Handing The Money To The Contractor

4 - The Contractor With The Money

The best and the worst...

The reality of human suffering is something I observe on a daily basis here in South Sudan. But every so often I am confronted with blatant, indiscriminate, premeditated, inhumane violence that overwhelms me with a sickening revelation of the degree of hatred and evil which human beings are capable of inflicting upon each other.

Take the other day for example… 

I have a young friend in Australia who has established a charity to support the development of the hospital in her home town of Abyei. When one of my colleagues here in Awiel told me he would be visiting Abyei I loaned him a camera and asked him to give me some information. I thought he would visit the hospital, meet the Director and come back with a report of what Australians could do to support this town that has been caught in the middle of tribal, political and religious fighting. 

I knew the most recent round of fighting had hit the town of Abyei hard, but the report was worse than I imagined. The town has been destroyed. Again, but worse than before. Every house has been burned, every building ruined, every school, market, administration building, communication tower… Even the hospital has been destroyed with the roof and everything inside stolen. All that remains are walls that I am told are beyond repair. 

One building remains untouched, towering over the empty town as a symbol of the perceived moral superiority of the perpetrators. 

I find it hard to comprehend how one group of humans can be so dedicated to the extermination of another group of humans. And, as has happened throughout history, God is used as the justification for the most evil of human behaviour. 

God have mercy on us. 

Then, on the other side of the word, a young friend continues her work, waiting for the day when Abyei can be rebuilt, confident somehow that no matter how many times the village she loves is burned to the ground, her people will return and build it up again.

Floods...

Flooding in Aweil is not like the floods I have seen in Australia, or on the news from other parts of the world. There is no great river that breaks its banks, or walls of water gushing down from mountains sweeping away whatever is in its path. Flooding in Aweil occurs slowly, quietly, without any terror. But still devastating.

Aweil is very flat. After a big rain the water just lies where it fell. There are parts of town that are well know for being prone to flooding, but with tens of thousands returning from the north, even this land is needed for housing. Now, homes are collapsing and people are making temporary shelters on road sides. With the rains come mosquitos and with mosquitos comes malaria. This is now an epidemic and with food shortages many people are also vulnerable to other illnesses such as typhoid.

Even here in the prime location occupied by the UN my tent is completely surrounded by water. And frogs, snakes and mosquitos. While this is little more than an inconvenience, it helps me to appreciate the suffering of those whose lives are threatened by the latest in what must seem to be a never-ending series of challenges.

Going to the bank...

We had a problem with a fund-transfer this week. When we finally tracked the money, the bank manager and other staff explained in detail the reasons why they couldn't release the funds. Their explanations made sense and it seemed nothing could be done except to cancel the transaction and ask for the money to be sent again - costing us a lot of time and money and causing stress to the leaders of our program.

Just then I recognized Cecilia, Joseph's niece who works at the bank. We chatted about different members of the family and she made a phone call to let them know I was in Juba.

When the manager walked back in Cecilia told him excitedly "This is my uncle."

Now, I don’t exactly look like Cecilia’s uncle, but he shook my hand and said "Well, if he is your uncle we had better do something." He offered a solution on the spot and in less than a minute resolved our problem in a way I had just been told was impossible.

And that’s the way things work in South Sudan.

James' family in Juba...

James has very kindly offered for me to stay with him and his family in Juba. In addition to saving us a lot of money at South Sudan’s over-priced hotels, I get to enjoy their warm South Sudanese hospitality.

Let me introduce you to a few of the family…

Jacqueline "No-Need" Agiyo

Elario is James’ older brother. He has been blind for about 18 months and doesn’t leave the compound. I gave him one of the bananas provided for our afternoon tea yesterday and when he had finished he threw the peel in the direction he thought was over the roof. It missed me by a few centre metres causing everyone to laugh. He was very embarrassed. “Sorry kawaja. Sorry sorry kawaja.”

Brother number three is Lukudu. He also has impaired vision, thought to be from repeated exposure to artillery. For about 7 years the family thought Lukudu had been killed in the war. James even brought his wife and children to Australia. Then they discovered that miraculously he had survived and had been living in the bush. His wife and children haven’t yet had the chance to reunite.

Agiyo is the daughter of James’ eldest brother. She is the one who does most of the cooking and cleaning for us. Her parents lost four of their six children within a few months of birth. So when their next daughter was born and they were asked what her name would be they simply replied “Agiyo” meaning “no need”. And that became her name. I prefer to call her by her Christian name Jacqueline.

Despite their various hardships, this family has welcomed me into their homes and their lives and shown unending kindness.

Feeling At Home...

I attended a funeral today. I was the only white person in a crowd of about 500 people and 5000 flies. It was hot and humid and not a breath of wind. I didnt know the language let alone the songs, and I'd never met the man we were paying our respects to.
About a quarter of the way through the five hour event one of the speakers seemed to be addressing me. My friend James interpreted: "He is saying feel at home. Feel at home."
I smiled to myself and thought I would struggle to find a place more un-like home anywhere on God's good earth.
But surprisingly, and in a way I cant understand let alone explain, his words had their effect and I found myself feeling completely at home.
That is Sudanese hospitality.