Saturday, 30 January 2010

Slaves...

For most of us slavery is something we have heard about but haven’t witnessed personally. Many find it hard to believe reports that there is more human trafficking today than when the slave trade was “abolished”, and even if we are well informed it can be difficult to imagine what modern-day slavery looks like. So let me introduce you to two young Sudanese women who told me their story.

Rebecca’s village was raided by nomadic militia from the north when she was a young girl. Her father was killed, the village burned, and Rebecca abducted and enslaved by a family in Southern Kordofan. As she matured she became a sex-object for her master. Apparently because of jealousy, the master’s wife arranged Rebecca’s marriage to another Sudanese abductee and she has two children from this relationship. Christian Solidarity International arranged Rebecca’s release but when she returned to her village she discovered her husband was a close relative – something so disgraceful in Dinka culture that her husband was forced to leave and Rebecca now lives without support from her community and with little prospect of marriage. She is blind in one eye as a result of being beaten by her master.

Asha was even younger when she was abducted. Her master raised her until she was old enough to “marry”, but after her first child discarded her and offered her for sex to other men who would visit. She was regularly beaten. When investigators located her and began the process of lobbying for her release, Asha’s master would hide her away to a different location. Recently Asha was released, again through the work of CSI, and is beginning to make a new life for herself. But it isn’t easy. She has no memory of her family of origin and doesn’t even know which tribe she belongs to. In a culture where identity is determined through family lineage, Asha has only vague suggestions of where she might have come from. Still, she has recently married, has a new baby, and is making a home for herself in the community.

Lobbying continues for the release of 35,000 abductees in northern Sudan.

Liberated abductees Rebecca and Asha

Friday, 22 January 2010

A report from Joseph...

It's our last day in Sudan. Tomorrow Joseph and I commence our way home. Here is Joseph's review of our time in Sudan...

We arrived in Juba on 31st December 2009. Juba is the seat of government of South Sudan whereby the temperature is fairly high - politically and naturally. It is the eve of campaigns for the national election, electing the state legislative assembly and national assembly. This is the first step of democratization since the military Junta in Khartoum took the government for the last 30 years. Juba has changed in terms of development which is going in high gear, but also has contradictions - the realities of government bureaucracy and some embezzlement of a few corrupt figures that is the reality of African or third world governments.

We left Juba after some few days to Wau which is the capital of Bahr Al Ghazel region. It reminds me of my childhood days. This is a place where I studied my primary school and junior primary school. And also it reminds me of my exit point when I left Sudan on November 24, 1983. All these memories come back in mind when we landed in Wau airport, but I can see new settlement and peace will become reality. There is also a reflection in my mind from a saying of our late hero Dr John Garang DeMabour when he said “I had sworn an oath for peace which is in your hands and now it is yours. Own it and treasure it.”

Then we travelled to Aweil, capital of Northern Bahr Al Ghazel state where we spent most of our time and started our mission. This time our mission covered four counties – Aweil Centre, Aweil South, Aweil West and Aweil North. In our visit to Aweil South with Church of Christ leaders we encountered a few things which delight our heart in terms of the ministry which have really grown since we left the area the last 18 months. They have done a great deal in terms of their hospital and their vision for Bible college and core workers for the ministry. These are the soldiers of Christ’s mission and their enthusiasm to preach the word of God and change their own people into the Kingdom of God on earth and in Heaven.

Meeting with one of the ministers, Pastor Paulino Malou, and sharing his vision towards the orphan children, in his heart burns fire to do something towards it. These are the backbone of the future for this community which have been marginalised and look as outcasts of the community. We have explored a lot of opportunities and ask God to open doors for this calling.

In our visit to Marialbai in Aweil West we have faced a lot of challenges – some put us in tears and some delight our hearts for what God has just given us in this mission. It is an area which has been destroyed in the last 40 years of civil war between north and south. This region of Ayat is between the border of North and South Sudan and they have lost many lives, women and children and some have been abducted to be slaves for their masters in the north. And also, it was people from this region where God has just called Steve to start his contact with Sudanese families in Adelaide. We met many of their brothers, sisters and mothers. When sitting down with the Chief Makuei Dit (Riiny Riiny Lual) he is in my age, but when we sat down together he looked older – more than 20 years than me, because of the heavy load of his own people on his shoulder. I began to reflect back when we were young and now time just passes by in these circumstances of life. His 10 brothers sacrificed their lives for this cause of the struggle. Among them the Major General Lual Riiny Riiny Lual is one of the founders of the movement. We stood by his grave for a moment and said a prayer. Half of his family live in Adelaide and half live in Marialbai. We heard many stories about great challenges regarding health and abductees and the orphans. The story of the abductees is horrifying. Some are made as sex slaves, some are still retained by their masters in the north, some have been killed through raping and torturing. Approximately they say there is about 40,000 but about 5000 have been released. We are given a portion of land in Ayat region for our mission. We ask God to help the call to start this mission as soon as God has put in the heart of our brothers and sisters in Australia.

Travelling to Gok Machar, Aweil North, to see IDPs (Internally Displaced Persons) and Darfurians, the local authorities couldn’t facilitate our request to see and visit these areas. This is the area mostly Rev Angelo and his team minister to Darfuri refugees. Their ministry assists the Darfurians with medications and food and other care.

Finally, we are back to Juba, reflecting on our mission. We see that God has just opened doors in so many ways, and we are asking our friends and brothers to pray and give whatever God has just asked them to give for this mission.


Joseph at the grave of Dr John Garang

Wednesday, 20 January 2010

What about the Hospital?

For those who have been following our partnership you might be wondering about our involvement in the Aweil Civic Hospital. Let me give a brief update.

A few weeks before leaving we learned that MSF have adopted a policy not to work with traditional midwives. They claim that in some instances there is a disincentive to bring mothers to the hospital. It was obvious that to supply birthing kits to Deborah at the hospital would be working against the operational practices of MSF and so we agreed that these would be best used in remote areas where home birthing is the only option. The previous article by Ros tells of how this has developed.

In addition to the supply of birthing kits, Deborah had asked us to provide some basic medical equipment and training. Now that MSF have taken over this role in the hospital this has become redundant. This of course is the best outcome as MSF are providing quality medical care. They report that the maternal mortality rate in the hospital has dropped from 22% to 1% since their takeover.

I have also had conversations with the Governor about supporting the development of one segment of the hospital. We haven’t been able to meet the Governor on this visit as he has been busy with pre-election campaigns, but after conversations with MSF we think it is unlikely this will proceed. The Ministry of Health has begun some refurbishments in conjunction with MSF and there are many other NGOs who have roles in the hospital. It seems we will be more effective if we concentrate in areas which have less resources and support. I will report more on this as it unfolds.

Provision of Birthing Kits…

We put Ros on a plane at lunch time and she is now on the slow journey home via Addis Ababa, Dubai, Kuala Lumpar and Perth. I told her I wouldnt let her leave until she had written a report on the birthing kits and medical equipment. She finished it this morning.


A report by Ros Stafford-Green
Following the 2008 trip by Steve and Joseph, there was interest expressed for birthing kits to be made available. 200 Zonta Birthing Kits were provided by Birthing Kit Foundation Australia (BKFA) for this trip. To ensure they would be used appropriately and that maternal and foetal outcomes would be known it was necessary to make contact with those who would use them. It soon became apparent that a new hospital at Malek Alel Church of Christ worked with some trained Traditional Birthing Attendants (TBAs) who could use these for home births. They had some experience using them some years back and realised their benefit. One bag of 100 kits along with a small amount of medical equipment was gratefully accepted for use in this community in Aweil South County.

Then travelling to the north west of Aweil we spent time in communities that have been decimated by the effects of war. However, with greater stability at the moment, Darfuri refugees and returnees from the north of Sudan are settling in the region. In a society where large families are expected, safe childbirth is a real issue. Here, complications at delivery can result in both maternal and foetal death. This is particularly pertinent in the Marialbai area where they are isolated and have no means of transportation when problems occur. As there are three trained TBAs there who had previous experience using the kits, the other bag of 100 birthing kits was offered to them. Cecilia, the head TBA, delivers three to four babies a week and was very keen to use the kits and receive further training.

At both these locations we were requested to provide further training for TBAs, as well as other medical, laboratory and nursing staff. We have begun to put in place the necessary administrative processes required by BKFA for an ongoing supply of birthing kits in these areas.


Whilst the optimal situation would be for all women to have access to a hospital and medical staff, the kits provide an immediate resource to help prevent infection, one of the major causes of death in Sudan.


Ros delivering birthing kits to Cecilia at Marialbai


Cecilia with one of the kits


Providing medical equipment to Philip Garang, the Clinical Officer at Malek Christian Hospital

Tuesday, 19 January 2010

Leaving Aweil...

This morning we were up at 4 AM to commence the first leg of our journey home. Now we are back in Juba and tomorrow Ros will start her way home. Joseph and I will be here till Saturday to meet a few more people and put in place some organisational matters.

Here are a few more photos from our time in Northern Bahr Al Ghazel...

Walking the streets of Aweil Town



 Marialbai Primary School


Making Bread


Wau Airport


Going to Church at Malek Alel


Two children who shared our lunch in Ayat

Friday, 15 January 2010

Marialbai...

We’ve spent three days visiting in the Ayat community north west of Aweil. Ros came home happy and excited. I came home in tears.


Ros has enjoyed the generous hospitality we’ve been shown and the chance to engage with midwives and medical projects. She has been instrumental in forming a vision and plan of what we can do here and has found this both enjoyable and fulfilling. This is a large part of why she has come. She has also captivated the children of Marialbai with her cameras and attempts at the local language. Despite the heat, dust, lack of sleep and very basic living conditions Ros has a bounce in her step. It has been an enjoyable and productive few days and she is obviously excited about our mission in Marialbai.

I have also enjoyed our time in Ayat and feel compelled by a vision that will serve this community. But seeing the impact of this war up close has been very confronting. Chief Riiny Riiny Lual is the Paramount Chief of the region and hosted our visit. His brothers and sisters were the first Sudanese I supported as we welcomed them as refugees in Adelaide. As we approach the Chief’s tukul we pass the grave of his older brother, the husband of Aluong who I supported in coming to Adelaide. The Chief has lost 10 brothers in this war, and those who survived are scattered around the world. The Chief’s car is broken down under the tree. The Missiriya have raided his cattle, his primary source of wealth.

I met the mothers and siblings of the first family we sponsored. As I filmed their message to their family in Australia, one girl broke down. “Waake archa morth aphe, waake archa morth aphe. Have you forgotten me? I didn’t even have the chance to say goodbye. Do you even remember me?”

There are many orphans here. In Sudan an orphan is someone who has lost their father. Many of them still have their mothers, but when life is so hard and resources so scare, life is even harder for these children. We are partnering with an energetic and visionary Church of Christ leader who has a vision to care for these children. The Chief took us for a walk to an area set aside for returnees from the north. These are people who have fled the conflict and now are coming back. There are hundreds of thousands of them with a large percentage of widows and orphans. As we walked others gathered until we had quite a group of followers. Then the Chief pointed out the boundaries of the land he is offering us. It is much larger than I expected. Their hopes and expectations are high.

We walk past a small but well equipped hospital established by a charity organisation. They will leave at the end of February. The local administrator says he would prefer they didn’t have the hospital than to have it stand empty as a reminder of what they don’t have. It is the only medical facility in the region and serves a population of about half a million people. We compare it to having a brand new garage – but no car. He says the community will be going back to the bush to get the traditional roots and leaves for medicine.

Later we met two women who had been abducted by Arab raiders. They are much more fortunate than so many who have been enslaved. A man we talked to has been lobbying the Government to support the release of the abductees. Many are sex slaves and we heard several reports of girls being raped with pieces of wood until they are dead. They have identified 40,000 who are still in slavery in the north and they have arranged the liberation of 5,000. Some men have been killed for their involvement in this work, and our friend narrowly escaped.

The Primary School has 600 students, an enthusiastic Principal and teachers. The buildings remain from the British era, but they are empty. There are no windows, doors, desks or books. Donkeys walk through the classrooms.

The school, the orphans and widows, the Chief’s broken car, the graves, the slaves and the tears of those whose families are scattered combine with overwhelming impact to tell the story of how this community has suffered through 40 years of war.

5 years of peace…

Saturday was CPA Day – the fifth anniversary of the signing of the Comprehensive Peace Agreement in Nairobi. The celebration was postponed until Monday and we witnessed the marching procession and could hear the music and dancing continue until dawn. Although there are still pockets of conflict and much to negotiate for sustainable peace to be a reality, we notice a change even from 18 months ago. There are less guns, fewer soldiers, the community is more relaxed and settled. Even a Colonel I spoke with was confident that from now on they can fight with words rather than guns.

Friday, 8 January 2010

Stability...

We are aware that news reports in Australia tell of a break-down in the peace agreement in Sudan. We are in daily contact with government leaders and are in a good position to monitor the situation. If there is any danger we have many people who will ensure our safety. The bigger issue is working for the peace and stability of the country, without which imrovement to the standard of living will be stalled.

A Family Scattered...

Yesterday we met Veronica Abuk, the mother and grandmother to several of my congregation in Adelaide. Let me share a bit of her story.

In 2001 Abuk and her family were in Aweil Town when the militia attacked. Abuk’s husband was killed, Abuk was shot, and the family scattered. A daughter, Juer, came to Australia and settled into my congregation with her daughters. Juer was in contact with some of her sisters and brothers, but she didn’t know what happened to her mother or her 4 younger siblings. She assumed her mother had been killed. Finally she found her younger siblings in an orphanage in Aweil under the care of the Catholic Church. We supported her application to bring them to Australia on a Family Orphan Visa. The older girl went missing in Khartoum but we welcomed the younger 3 to Australia about 2 years ago and they have become part of our church family.

A few months later I came with Joseph to Aweil and there we discovered that Juer’s mother Abuk was living in Khartoum, North Sudan. I rang Juer and passed on the news. Last year another daughter was able to bring her back to Aweil. But there is no news of the lost daughter.

When I greeted Abuk I told her we thought she was dead. I passed on greetings from her children, told her how well they are doing in Australia and showed some photos from my computer. Abuk of course was overjoyed to see the pictures and hear the news. But there was no hiding the pain. We see a lot of anguish here, but Joseph and I couldn’t hold back our tears. This family’s story is typical of what many South Sudanese have endured. We pray one day they can be reunited.



With Veronica Abuk and her daughter

Wednesday, 6 January 2010

Photos of Aweil...

Campaigning prior to the coming elections


Making tahini at the markets



Meeting Pastor Yournew Wol after his return from Nairobi




Our first breakfast at Mama Adut's home in Aweil


Aweil at last...

On Monday we flew from Juba to Wau on a comfortable and clean Fokker 50 named after the President of the South Salva Kiir. At one point the plane dipped quite suddenly, and when we arrived at Wau airport I heard the pilot saying another plane was coming towards us and he had to duck out of its way. Our friend Ronald Ruay Deng arranged our transport by car to Aweil – about 1 ½ hours - and we are now comfortably settled in a new hut Mama Adut Dit has prepared for us. Once again we were offered free accommodation at the hotel, but we prefer to stay with our “mum”.

Joseph and I are enjoying renewing relationships and Ros is making new friends. The delegation from the American churches who were to be here for the opening of the hospital at Malek Alel in Aweil South has postponed their visit, so we will not be meeting with them as planned. And the town is busy with election campaigns which will occupy the time of those involved in the state government. But we have a lot to do and are keen to make the most of the two weeks we will have in Aweil.

Monday, 4 January 2010

Juba Town...

Joseph and I had a chat and decided to appoint Ros the official team photographer. Here are a few of her shots of our time in Juba Town.


Joseph with sister Ajok and brother Maluak. They couldnt remember the last time the three of them were together.




The view from the back of our hotel




The central business district of Juba.




Shopping for a phone - Because 3 phones is just not enough in Sudan.



To Aweil...

It has taken a bit longer then we planned, but we are all set to go to Aweil tomorrow. Ros' luggage arrived from Addis Ababa yesterday and we immediately booked flights to Wau and transport by car to Aweil.

This morning we attended a Kenyan Pentecostal church. The pastor told us to think positively, set goals, and God will give us new cars and a new house. If it was really so easy we could end world poverty today.

We have been able to spend time with Joseph;s family, including a brother Joseph hadnt seen for 10 years. Sudanese hospitality is really something to be experienced. We are like part of the family here.

Obvisouly the three of us are an odd looking group, and people try to work out the relationship between us. I tell people that Joseph and I are brothers and Ros is our mother - that sems to resolve any issues.

Ros has fitted in easily and has coped well with Sudan. Already she has made many friends including a youg Ugandan woman who greets her with hugs several times each day. I have enjoyed renewing some friendships too, and making some new ones. If I want to get a laugh, I introduce myself as Majok Dit from the Pacher tribe in Waaynjok.

Achincrutch!

Sunday, 3 January 2010

First Impressions…

Having been in Sudan for a couple of days, I asked Ros to share her first impressions.

Flying over vast deserts then seeing the effect of water where the Nile creates lush greenness. Then seeing how the harsh climate affects both building design and its effect on any structure. Added to this is the continuous smoke haze create by numerous fires, particularly by burning rubbish – much of which could be recycled.
The people are amazingly resilient and cheerful, despite incredible sadness. Ive already had first hand contact with situations of great loss due to the war and oppression. However at the same time there is a real sense of moving on and not being dominate by the past.
Ive been amazed at the amount of English spoken here in Juba and the conversations Ive been able to have. Everywhere people have peen friendly and helpful and Ive been surprised at the variety of African countries they have come from.
There is a sense of hope and anticipation for the conditions in Sudan to improve, especially expressed being here at a new year, concurrent with Independence Day. Many seem to sense a personal responsibility for this to happen, rather than an expectation of others to address the issues.
Everywhere there are many children, teenagers and young people, with few old people. Everyone seems to know everyone else, and how and when things happen.
Having flown in from a very Moslem country into Sudan I have been surprised at the very open expressions of Christianity. Many got dressed up to go to church and give thanks on New Years Day and at the special celebration hosted by the President’s wife which we were privileged to be invited we all stood to be led in prayer.
There are cute lizards of various sizes which dart around trying to avoid the kites which circle overhead. As a bird lover I have several as yet unidentified and interesting birds. The huge red sun rises over a pink haze and a light breeze last for a while before it becomes still and hot. In the shade it is quite tolerable. Infrastructure such as power are intermittent, and roads “designed” for 4WD take all cars and motorbikes, often used as public transport.
I feel very welcome and relaxed knowing that Joseph knows everything and everyone and Steve with computer and 3 phones will organise everything.
Photo: Ros with children in Juba yesterday.

Joining hands across the ocean…

When I first met Deng Deng Akon in Juba 18 months ago I commented on the difficulty of travel and communication between our two countries. He reassured me that Australia didn’t seem so far away because his wife and children were there. I have since learned that leaders in South Sudan have a stronger relationship with Australia than any other western country because of the number who have family members amongst us.

In my first 24 hours back in Sudan I have seen how strong this connection is. Already I have met dozens of Australian Sudanese, several that I know and have assisted in various ways. At an Independence Day concert and dinner last night which was hosted by the President I sat on one side of the Aweil Community Chairman from Adelaide, and on the other side of a man who has a wife and children in Adelaide. Amongst the dozen or so ladies escorting the First Lady were three from Adelaide.

Joseph said to me that he could see the reality of Deng Deng’s words – that the link between our communities was indeed like joining hands across the ocean.

Saturday, 2 January 2010

Financial Ironies…

Juba is known as a wild frontier town, full of danger and opportunity. People who are prepared to face some risks come from many places to make easy money in the rapidly developing capital. But while many are making their millions, finding money for health and education isn’t so easy.

I was discussing this with Ros and Joseph at breakfast, and soon after met a business woman from Kenya who has a vision for returning some of her profits into the development of women’s education. If enough people have the conviction to work for the good of the wider community change will come more quickly. The great hindrance to development here is the wealthy and powerful who only provide for their family and friends. Millions of dollars are being syphoned from the local economy to individuals in other countries.

The sad reality is Sudan is one of the poorest countries in the world, with one of the fastest growing economies. While the rich can take advantage of this, the poor don’t see any benefit.

Friday, 1 January 2010

New Year in Sudan...

Happy New Year from Sudan! Ros, Joseph and I arrived in Juba a couple of hours ago from Addis Ababa. Unfortunately Ros' luggage didnt! So far it has taken 5 flights and 4 days to get to Juba and now it will take a few more days before we get to Aweil.
While in Aweil in June-July 2008 Joseph and I were asked repeatedly when we would return to Sudan. We said we hoped to be back the following year. We made it by 8 hours!
Already we have had to change our plans, but we know that is normal here and we adjust. We're excited about what lies ahead in 2010.